Revelation of Swiss bank accounts
This is so shocking.......If black money deposits was an Olympics event.... India would have won a gold medal hands down. The second best Russia has 4 times lesser deposit. U.S. is not even there in the counting in top five! India has more money in Swiss banks than all the other countries combined!
Recently, due to international pressure, the Swiss government agreed to disclose the names of the account holders only if the respective governments formally asked for it. Indian government is not asking for the details.......no marks for guessing why?
We need to start a movement to pressurise the government to do so! This is perhaps the only way, and a golden opportunity, to expose the high and mighty and weed out corruption!
Is India poor, who says? Ask the Swiss banks. With personal account deposit bank of $1,500 billion in foreign reserve which have been misappropriated, an amount 13 times larger than the country's foreign debt, one needs to rethink if India is a poor country?
DISHONEST INDUSTRIALISTS, scandalous politicians and corrupt IAS, IRS, IPS officers have deposited in foreign banks in their illegal personal accounts a sum of about $1500 billion, which have been misappropriated by them. This amount is about 13 times larger than the country's foreign debt.. With this amount 45 crore poor people can get Rs 1,00,000 each. This huge amount has been appropriated from the people of India by exploiting and betraying them. Once this huge amount of black money and property comes back to India , the entire foreign debt can be repaid in 24 hours. After paying the entire foreign debt, we will have surplus amount, almost 12 times larger than the foreign debt. If this surplus amount is invested in earning interest, the amount of interest will be more than the annual budget of the Central government. So even if all the taxes are abolished, then also the Central government will be able to maintain the country very comfortably.
Some 80,000 people travel to Switzerland every year, of whom 25,000 travel very frequently. 'Obviously, these people won't be tourists. They must be travelling there for some other reason,' believes an official involved in tracking illegal money. And, clearly, he isn't referring to the commerce ministry bureaucrats who've been flitting in and out of Geneva ever since the World Trade Organisation (WTO) negotiations went into a tailspin!
Just read the following details and note how these dishonest industrialists, scandalous politicians, corrupt officers, cricketers, film actors, illegal sex trade and protected wildlife operators, to name just a few, sucked this country's wealth and prosperity. This may be the picture of deposits in Swiss banks only. What about other international banks?
Black money in Swiss banks -- Swiss Banking Association report, 2006 details bank deposits in the territory of Switzerland by nationals of following countries:
TOP FIVE
INDIA $1,456 BILLION
RUSSIA $470 BILLION
U.K. $390 BILLION
UKRAINE $100 BILLION
CHINA $96 BILLION
Now do the math's - India with $1,456 billion or $1.4 trillion has more money in Swiss banks than rest of the world combined. Public loot since 1947:
Can we bring back our money? It is one of the biggest loots witnessed by mankind -- the loot of the Aam Aadmi (common man) since 1947, by his brethren occupying public office. It has been orchestrated by politicians, bureaucrats and some businessmen.
The list is almost all-encompassing. No wonder, everyone in India loots with impunity and without any fear. What is even more depressing in that this ill-gotten wealth of ours has been stashed away abroad into secret bank accounts located in some of the world's best known tax havens. And to that extent the Indian economy has been stripped of its wealth. Ordinary Indians may not be exactly aware of how such secret accounts operate and what are the rules and regulations that go on to govern such tax havens. However, one may well be aware of 'Swiss bank accounts,' the shorthand for murky dealings, secrecy and of course pilferage from developing countries into rich developed ones.
In fact, some finance experts and economists believe tax havens to be a conspiracy of the western world against the poor countries. By allowing the proliferation of tax havens in the twentieth century, the western world explicitly encourages the movement of scarce capital from the developing countries to the rich. In March 2005, the Tax Justice Network (TJN) published a research finding demonstrating that $11..5 trillion of personal wealth was held offshore by rich individuals across the globe.
The findings estimated that a large proportion of this wealth was managed from some 70 tax havens. Further, augmenting these studies of TJN, Raymond Baker -- in his widely celebrated book titled 'Capitalism's Achilles Heel: Dirty Money and How to Renew the Free Market System' -- estimates that at least $5 trillion have been shifted out of poorer countries to the West since the mid-1970.
It is further estimated by experts that one per cent of the world's population holds more than 57 per cent of total global wealth, routing it invariably through these tax havens. How much of this is from India is anybody's guess.
What is to be noted here is that most of the wealth of Indians parked in these tax havens is illegitimate money acquired through corrupt means. Naturally, the secrecy associated with the bank accounts in such places is central to the issue, not their low tax rates as the term 'tax havens' suggests. Remember Bofors and how India could not trace the ultimate beneficiary of those transactions because of the secrecy associated with these bank accounts?
IS THERE ANYONE WHO CAN SAVE INDIA?
Saturday, March 7, 2009
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
~*~5-Are we friendly with our life?~*~
Other green materials
* Raw vegetable peelings from your kitchen
* Tea bags and leaves, coffee grounds
* Young green weed growth – avoid weeds with seeds
* Soft green prunings
* Animal manure from herbivores eg cows and horses
* Poultry manure and bedding
'Browns' or carbon rich ingredients - slow to rot
Torn up newspaper and junk mail make good dry material
* Cardboard eg. cereal packets and egg boxes
* Waste paper and junk mail, including shredded confidential waste
* Cardboard tubes
* Glossy magazines – although it is better for the environment to pass them on to your local doctors’ or dentists' surgery or send them for recycling
* Newspaper – although it is better for the environment to send your newspapers for recycling
* Bedding from vegetarian pets eg rabbits, guinea pigs – hay, straw, shredded paper, wood shavings
* Tough hedge clippings
* Woody prunings
* Old bedding plants
* Bracken
* Sawdust
* Wood shavings
* Fallen leaves can be composted but the best use of them is to make leafmould
Other compostable items
* Wood ash, in moderation
* Hair, nail clippings
* Egg shells (crushed)
* Natural fibres eg. 100% wool or cotton
Do NOT compost
* Meat
* Fish
* Cooked food
* Coal & coke ash
* Cat litter
* Dog faeces
* Disposable nappies
How do I make my compost?
You can make compost simply by adding compostable items to a compost heap when you feel like it. It will all compost eventually but may take a long time and if the mix is unbalanced, may not produce a very pleasant end product. With a little extra attention you could improve things dramatically. If you want to produce more compost in a short time, and are able to put more effort into it, follow the 'HOT HEAP' route.
An ideal mix
1.
Try, if possible, to collect enough compost materials to make a layer of at least 30cm or more in the compost bin. Weed the garden, mow the lawn, empty the kitchen bucket! Mix in some straw, woody prunings, scrunched up cardboard packaging eg cereal boxes – this helps create air spaces within the heap. It may help if you place a few woody plant stems or small twigs on the bottom first as this will improve the air circulation and drainage.
2.
Continue to fill the container as and when you have ingredients. If most of what you compost is kitchen waste, mix it with egg boxes, toilet roll middles and similar household paper and cardboard products to create a better balance.
3.
When the container is full - which it may never be as the contents will sink as it composts - or when you decide to, stop adding any more. Then either just leave it to finish composting (which could take up to a year) or go to Step 4.
4.
Remove the container from the material, or the material from the container – whichever you find easiest. If the lower layers have composted, use this on the garden. Mix everything else together well. Add water if it is dry, or add dry material if it is soggy. Replace in the bin and leave to mature.
The Hot! heap route
1.
Gather enough material to fill your compost container at one go. Some of this may have been stored in a cool heap and have started to rot slightly. Make sure you have a mixture of soft and tough materials.
2.
Chop up tough items using shears, a sharp spade (lay items out on soil or grass to avoid jarring) or a shredder.
3.
Mix ingredients together as much as possible before adding to the container. In particular, mix items, such as grass mowings and any shredded paper, which tend to settle and exclude air, with more open items that tend to dry out. Fill the container as above, watering as you go.
4.
If you have the energy, give the heap a good mix several times.
Give the heap a good mix
Within a few days, the heap is likely to get hot to the touch. When it begins to cool down, or a week or two later, turn the heap. Remove everything from the container or lift the container off and mix it all up, trying to get the outside to the inside. Add water if it is dry, or dry material if it is soggy. Replace in the bin.
5.
The heap may well heat up again; the new supply of air you have mixed in allows the fast acting aerobic microbes, ie those that need oxygen, to continue with their work. Step 4 can be repeated several more times if you have the energy, but the heating will be less and less. When it no longer heats up again, leave it undisturbed to finish composting.
A hybrid route
There’s nothing wrong with doing a bit of both. Fill your heap as you create waste (as for the cool method), then turn it when you have time. This will help it heat up. You can turn it as much or as rarely as you please – the more often you turn the heap, the quicker your compost will be ready.
When is it ready?
Compost can be made in as little as six to eight weeks, or, more usually, it can take a year or more. In general, the more effort you put in, the quicker you will get compost.
When the ingredients you have put in your container have turned into a dark brown, earthy smelling material, the composting process is complete. It is then best left for a month or two to 'mature' before it is used. Don't worry if your compost is not fine and crumbly. Even if it is lumpy, sticky or stringy, with bits of twig and eggshell still obvious, it is quite usable. It can be sieved before using if you prefer. Any large bits can be added back into your new compost heap.
These can be added to your compost heap but the best use of them is to make leafmould. Stuff wet leaves into black plastic sacks (loosely tied), or an open wire mesh container. The resulting leafmould is ready to use after a year or two.
Grass mowings
Mix well with browns to avoid a slimy mess. Alternatively, leave on the lawn whenever possible - they will soon disappear and feed the grass; this will not cause 'thatch'. Can also be mixed into a leafmould heap, or used directly as a soil mulch.
Diseased plants
Plant materials suffering from soil-borne diseases such as clubroot and white rot should not be added to a compost heap. Anything else can be safely composted in a hot heap. Diseases that don’t need living matter to survive, such as grey mould, mildews, and wilts, may survive in a cold heap. But heat is not the only factor that will kill diseases: the intense microbial activity in a compost heap also helps to dispose of them. Some diseases, such as tomato and potato blight need living plant tissue to survive and will not last long without it. It is fine to add foliage suffering from these diseases to your hot or cold compost heap.
If in doubt, leave it out. Problem materials can be sent to your local council green waste recycling facility where the composting methods are hot enough to kill any problem organisms. – .
Garden Organic members can get specific advice from the Information Team - see our factsheet on Using the advisory service for full details.
Access to this factsheet requires members' password.
Find out more about Garden Organic membership here.
Perennial weeds
Some perennial weeds will be killed in a hot heap; avoid really persistent horrors such as celandine, docks, bulbous buttercup, ground elder and bindweed. Don't burn or dump these weeds - they are rich in plant foods. Mix with grass mowings in a plastic sack. Tie it up and leave for a few months until the weeds are no longer recognisable, then add to the compost heap. Or send them to your local council green waste recycling facility where the composting methods are hot enough to kill them off.
Weed seeds
Weed seeds may survive a cool heap, but should be killed in a hot one. If your finished compost tends to grow weeds, dig it in rather than spreading it on the soil surface.
Hedge clippings and prunings
Chop or shred tough prunings and clippings from evergreen hedges before adding to a mixed compost heap. Compost large quantities separately; even unshredded they will compost eventually. Mix with grass or other activating material; water well. Tread down the heap, then cover. In anything from a few months to a few years you will have a coarse mulch which can be used on perennial beds.
Garden Organic members can more information in our factsheet What can I do with woody garden waste?
Access to this factsheet requires members' password.
Find out more about Garden Organic membership here.
Animal manures
Strawy horse and cattle manure composts well. Manure mixed with wood shavings should be left to rot until the shavings have decomposed. If it is dry, water well and mix with grass mowings, poultry manure or other activating (ie ‘green’ or nitrogen rich) material. When rotted use as a surface mulch.
Small pets, like hamsters, don't produce many droppings but you can still use their waste as a strawy addition to the compost heap. Guinea pigs are marvellous - they love eating weeds and convert them quickly to prime compost material!
Paper products
Newspaper can be added to a compost heap, but in any quantity it should go for recycling into more paper. Cardboard, paper towels and other paper items can be scrunched up and composted. They are particularly useful where kitchen scraps make up a high proportion of the compost ingredients. Glossy paper takes a long time to rot down. Coloured inks are quite safe to compost.
Sawdust and wood shavings
Very slow to decay. Raw or uncomposted wood shavings incorporated into the soil can lock up soil nitrogen, making it unavailable for plants for a year or more. Add in small quantities; balance with quick-to-rot activating materials. See also 'Animal manures' above. Do not use if treated with wood preservatives.
* Raw vegetable peelings from your kitchen
* Tea bags and leaves, coffee grounds
* Young green weed growth – avoid weeds with seeds
* Soft green prunings
* Animal manure from herbivores eg cows and horses
* Poultry manure and bedding
'Browns' or carbon rich ingredients - slow to rot
Torn up newspaper and junk mail make good dry material
* Cardboard eg. cereal packets and egg boxes
* Waste paper and junk mail, including shredded confidential waste
* Cardboard tubes
* Glossy magazines – although it is better for the environment to pass them on to your local doctors’ or dentists' surgery or send them for recycling
* Newspaper – although it is better for the environment to send your newspapers for recycling
* Bedding from vegetarian pets eg rabbits, guinea pigs – hay, straw, shredded paper, wood shavings
* Tough hedge clippings
* Woody prunings
* Old bedding plants
* Bracken
* Sawdust
* Wood shavings
* Fallen leaves can be composted but the best use of them is to make leafmould
Other compostable items
* Wood ash, in moderation
* Hair, nail clippings
* Egg shells (crushed)
* Natural fibres eg. 100% wool or cotton
Do NOT compost
* Meat
* Fish
* Cooked food
* Coal & coke ash
* Cat litter
* Dog faeces
* Disposable nappies
How do I make my compost?
You can make compost simply by adding compostable items to a compost heap when you feel like it. It will all compost eventually but may take a long time and if the mix is unbalanced, may not produce a very pleasant end product. With a little extra attention you could improve things dramatically. If you want to produce more compost in a short time, and are able to put more effort into it, follow the 'HOT HEAP' route.
An ideal mix
To make good compost you need a more or less equal amount of 'greens' and 'browns' by volume. You can also include small amounts of the 'other ingredients' listed in the What can I compost section.
The Cool! heap route
1.
Try, if possible, to collect enough compost materials to make a layer of at least 30cm or more in the compost bin. Weed the garden, mow the lawn, empty the kitchen bucket! Mix in some straw, woody prunings, scrunched up cardboard packaging eg cereal boxes – this helps create air spaces within the heap. It may help if you place a few woody plant stems or small twigs on the bottom first as this will improve the air circulation and drainage.
2.
Continue to fill the container as and when you have ingredients. If most of what you compost is kitchen waste, mix it with egg boxes, toilet roll middles and similar household paper and cardboard products to create a better balance.
3.
When the container is full - which it may never be as the contents will sink as it composts - or when you decide to, stop adding any more. Then either just leave it to finish composting (which could take up to a year) or go to Step 4.
4.
Remove the container from the material, or the material from the container – whichever you find easiest. If the lower layers have composted, use this on the garden. Mix everything else together well. Add water if it is dry, or add dry material if it is soggy. Replace in the bin and leave to mature.
The Hot! heap route
1.
Gather enough material to fill your compost container at one go. Some of this may have been stored in a cool heap and have started to rot slightly. Make sure you have a mixture of soft and tough materials.
2.
Chop up tough items using shears, a sharp spade (lay items out on soil or grass to avoid jarring) or a shredder.
3.
Mix ingredients together as much as possible before adding to the container. In particular, mix items, such as grass mowings and any shredded paper, which tend to settle and exclude air, with more open items that tend to dry out. Fill the container as above, watering as you go.
4.
If you have the energy, give the heap a good mix several times.
Give the heap a good mix
Within a few days, the heap is likely to get hot to the touch. When it begins to cool down, or a week or two later, turn the heap. Remove everything from the container or lift the container off and mix it all up, trying to get the outside to the inside. Add water if it is dry, or dry material if it is soggy. Replace in the bin.
5.
The heap may well heat up again; the new supply of air you have mixed in allows the fast acting aerobic microbes, ie those that need oxygen, to continue with their work. Step 4 can be repeated several more times if you have the energy, but the heating will be less and less. When it no longer heats up again, leave it undisturbed to finish composting.
A hybrid route
There’s nothing wrong with doing a bit of both. Fill your heap as you create waste (as for the cool method), then turn it when you have time. This will help it heat up. You can turn it as much or as rarely as you please – the more often you turn the heap, the quicker your compost will be ready.
When is it ready?
Compost can be made in as little as six to eight weeks, or, more usually, it can take a year or more. In general, the more effort you put in, the quicker you will get compost.
When the ingredients you have put in your container have turned into a dark brown, earthy smelling material, the composting process is complete. It is then best left for a month or two to 'mature' before it is used. Don't worry if your compost is not fine and crumbly. Even if it is lumpy, sticky or stringy, with bits of twig and eggshell still obvious, it is quite usable. It can be sieved before using if you prefer. Any large bits can be added back into your new compost heap.
Compost hints & tips
Autumn leaves
These can be added to your compost heap but the best use of them is to make leafmould. Stuff wet leaves into black plastic sacks (loosely tied), or an open wire mesh container. The resulting leafmould is ready to use after a year or two.
Grass mowings
Mix well with browns to avoid a slimy mess. Alternatively, leave on the lawn whenever possible - they will soon disappear and feed the grass; this will not cause 'thatch'. Can also be mixed into a leafmould heap, or used directly as a soil mulch.
Diseased plants
Plant materials suffering from soil-borne diseases such as clubroot and white rot should not be added to a compost heap. Anything else can be safely composted in a hot heap. Diseases that don’t need living matter to survive, such as grey mould, mildews, and wilts, may survive in a cold heap. But heat is not the only factor that will kill diseases: the intense microbial activity in a compost heap also helps to dispose of them. Some diseases, such as tomato and potato blight need living plant tissue to survive and will not last long without it. It is fine to add foliage suffering from these diseases to your hot or cold compost heap.
If in doubt, leave it out. Problem materials can be sent to your local council green waste recycling facility where the composting methods are hot enough to kill any problem organisms. – .
Garden Organic members can get specific advice from the Information Team - see our factsheet on Using the advisory service for full details.
Access to this factsheet requires members' password.
Find out more about Garden Organic membership here.
Perennial weeds
Some perennial weeds will be killed in a hot heap; avoid really persistent horrors such as celandine, docks, bulbous buttercup, ground elder and bindweed. Don't burn or dump these weeds - they are rich in plant foods. Mix with grass mowings in a plastic sack. Tie it up and leave for a few months until the weeds are no longer recognisable, then add to the compost heap. Or send them to your local council green waste recycling facility where the composting methods are hot enough to kill them off.
Weed seeds
Weed seeds may survive a cool heap, but should be killed in a hot one. If your finished compost tends to grow weeds, dig it in rather than spreading it on the soil surface.
Hedge clippings and prunings
Chop or shred tough prunings and clippings from evergreen hedges before adding to a mixed compost heap. Compost large quantities separately; even unshredded they will compost eventually. Mix with grass or other activating material; water well. Tread down the heap, then cover. In anything from a few months to a few years you will have a coarse mulch which can be used on perennial beds.
Garden Organic members can more information in our factsheet What can I do with woody garden waste?
Access to this factsheet requires members' password.
Find out more about Garden Organic membership here.
Animal manures
Strawy horse and cattle manure composts well. Manure mixed with wood shavings should be left to rot until the shavings have decomposed. If it is dry, water well and mix with grass mowings, poultry manure or other activating (ie ‘green’ or nitrogen rich) material. When rotted use as a surface mulch.
Small pets, like hamsters, don't produce many droppings but you can still use their waste as a strawy addition to the compost heap. Guinea pigs are marvellous - they love eating weeds and convert them quickly to prime compost material!
Paper products
Newspaper can be added to a compost heap, but in any quantity it should go for recycling into more paper. Cardboard, paper towels and other paper items can be scrunched up and composted. They are particularly useful where kitchen scraps make up a high proportion of the compost ingredients. Glossy paper takes a long time to rot down. Coloured inks are quite safe to compost.
Sawdust and wood shavings
Very slow to decay. Raw or uncomposted wood shavings incorporated into the soil can lock up soil nitrogen, making it unavailable for plants for a year or more. Add in small quantities; balance with quick-to-rot activating materials. See also 'Animal manures' above. Do not use if treated with wood preservatives.
Friday, February 6, 2009
~*~पति ने बनाया पत्नी का मंदीर~*~
सायद दुनिया का ये पहला किस्सा हे जहा पति ने अपनी प्यारी सी पत्नी की याद मे उसके गुजर जाने के बाद प्यारका मंदिर बनाया हो.सेलिब्रिटी के प्यार के किससे तो आम चर्चा मे रहते हे,यहातक की ख्यात लोगो के पत्नी प्रेम कीबाते भी मीडिया मे उच्छलती रहती हे चाहे वो सच्ची हो या फिर ख्यात लोग हे और उनके बारे मे अच्छा ही लिखनेकी आम बात से प्रभावित हो के लिखा हो. प्रेमिका की याद मे ताजमहल,मंदिर या महालय तो बनते ही हे,जैसे हमजानते हे अमिताभ बच्चन या फिर रजनीकांत जैसे अभिनेता के भी मंदिर बने हे. मगर यहा जो बात करने जा रहाहू वो एक आम श्रमिक पति ने अपनी पत्नी की याद मे बनाए मंदिर की हे.
जहा पढ़े लिखे इंसान तू तू में में मे अपनी ज़िंदगी गुज़ार देते हे...वहा एक मज़दूरी से अपना पेट पालने वाले इंसानसे क्या उमीद की जा सकती हे. अपना उल्लू सीधा करने के लए लोग एक दूसरे का ईस्तमाल करते हे ऐसे हालात मेगुजरात के छोटे से कस्बे का रहने वाला दिनेश गोस्वामी प्यार की उँचाई को आसमान तक लहरा रहा हे. जाम्जोध्पुर मे ट्रांसपोर्ट से मालासामान उतारने का और रेक्डी खींच के मज़दूरी करनेवाला ये इंसान प्यार कीगहराई को कितनी आसानी से नाप चुका हे. जो ना बड़ी बड़ी बाते करता हे ना उसे अपने नाम को उँचा करना हे. वोजीता ही प्यार मे हे और तभी वोही बना सकता हे एक प्यार का मंदीर अपनी पत्नी की याद मे. दिनेशगिरी गोस्वामीकी पत्नी का 2 साल पहले देहांत हो गया. उनकी पत्नी के मृत्यु के बाद उनके सर पर अपने 2 पुत्र और घर कीज़िम्मेवारी आन पड़ी. आर्थिकि स्थिति भी काफ़ी कमजोर थी. दो वक्त की रोटी के जुगाड़ मे ही रत ये इंसान मज़दूरीके साथ अपने बचो का भी ख़याल रखता था. इतना ही नही उसके दिल मे अपनी पत्नी के प्रति जो प्यार था वो भीबढ़ता जाता था जो इस दुनिया मे नही रही मगर उनके दिल मे हमेशा ज़िंदा थी. दिनेषभाई को अपनी पत्नी के प्रतिबहुत ही प्यार था और इसी प्यार ने उन्हे अपनी पत्नी का स्मृति मंदिर बनाने पे मजबूर किया.
वो कहते हे की मेरी पत्नी मूज़े इस जीवन सफ़र मे मजधार मे छोड के चल बसी मगर मे उसके प्यार को भूल नहीपाया हू और उसकी याद इतनी तीव्रता से महसूस करता हू की जैसे भगवान के विरह मे भक्त का हो. और इस लिएमैने तय किया की मे मेरी पत्नी का स्मृति मंदिर मेरे ही गाँव मे बनाउ. और ऐसे बना ये स्मृति मंदिर जिसमे उनकीपत्नी की खूबसूरत मूर्ति लगी हे और हररोज उसकी पूजा अर्चना होती हे.
जब ये किस्सा सुना दिल खुशी से झूम उठा...प्यार किसी से भी हो मगर सॅचा हे तो इंसान अपने प्यार के लिएकुच्छ भी कर गुजरता हे प्लेटोनिक लव प्यार का सुंदर एहसास जो ज़िंदगी जीने का बल देता हे.....हम जानते हे कीये सिर्फ़ एहसास हे मगर ऐसा लगता हे की जिसे हम चाहते हे वो हमारे पास हे और वही एहसास ज़िंदगी को रंगीनबना देते हे गम का साया भी अगर पड़ जाए तो प्यार का एहसास गम को भुला के ज़िंदगी को खुशी ओ से भर जाताहे.
जहा पढ़े लिखे इंसान तू तू में में मे अपनी ज़िंदगी गुज़ार देते हे...वहा एक मज़दूरी से अपना पेट पालने वाले इंसानसे क्या उमीद की जा सकती हे. अपना उल्लू सीधा करने के लए लोग एक दूसरे का ईस्तमाल करते हे ऐसे हालात मेगुजरात के छोटे से कस्बे का रहने वाला दिनेश गोस्वामी प्यार की उँचाई को आसमान तक लहरा रहा हे. जाम्जोध्पुर मे ट्रांसपोर्ट से मालासामान उतारने का और रेक्डी खींच के मज़दूरी करनेवाला ये इंसान प्यार कीगहराई को कितनी आसानी से नाप चुका हे. जो ना बड़ी बड़ी बाते करता हे ना उसे अपने नाम को उँचा करना हे. वोजीता ही प्यार मे हे और तभी वोही बना सकता हे एक प्यार का मंदीर अपनी पत्नी की याद मे. दिनेशगिरी गोस्वामीकी पत्नी का 2 साल पहले देहांत हो गया. उनकी पत्नी के मृत्यु के बाद उनके सर पर अपने 2 पुत्र और घर कीज़िम्मेवारी आन पड़ी. आर्थिकि स्थिति भी काफ़ी कमजोर थी. दो वक्त की रोटी के जुगाड़ मे ही रत ये इंसान मज़दूरीके साथ अपने बचो का भी ख़याल रखता था. इतना ही नही उसके दिल मे अपनी पत्नी के प्रति जो प्यार था वो भीबढ़ता जाता था जो इस दुनिया मे नही रही मगर उनके दिल मे हमेशा ज़िंदा थी. दिनेषभाई को अपनी पत्नी के प्रतिबहुत ही प्यार था और इसी प्यार ने उन्हे अपनी पत्नी का स्मृति मंदिर बनाने पे मजबूर किया.
वो कहते हे की मेरी पत्नी मूज़े इस जीवन सफ़र मे मजधार मे छोड के चल बसी मगर मे उसके प्यार को भूल नहीपाया हू और उसकी याद इतनी तीव्रता से महसूस करता हू की जैसे भगवान के विरह मे भक्त का हो. और इस लिएमैने तय किया की मे मेरी पत्नी का स्मृति मंदिर मेरे ही गाँव मे बनाउ. और ऐसे बना ये स्मृति मंदिर जिसमे उनकीपत्नी की खूबसूरत मूर्ति लगी हे और हररोज उसकी पूजा अर्चना होती हे.
जब ये किस्सा सुना दिल खुशी से झूम उठा...प्यार किसी से भी हो मगर सॅचा हे तो इंसान अपने प्यार के लिएकुच्छ भी कर गुजरता हे प्लेटोनिक लव प्यार का सुंदर एहसास जो ज़िंदगी जीने का बल देता हे.....हम जानते हे कीये सिर्फ़ एहसास हे मगर ऐसा लगता हे की जिसे हम चाहते हे वो हमारे पास हे और वही एहसास ज़िंदगी को रंगीनबना देते हे गम का साया भी अगर पड़ जाए तो प्यार का एहसास गम को भुला के ज़िंदगी को खुशी ओ से भर जाताहे.
Monday, January 26, 2009
~*~Journey of Indian Republic~*~
Journey of Indian Republic
58 years back, a salute of 21 guns and the unfurling of the Indian National flag by Dr. Rajendra Prasad heralded the historic birth of the Indian Republic on January 26, 1950; 894 days after our country became a dominion following withdrawal of British Rule. Since then, every year the day is celebrated with great pride and happiness all over the nation. The transition of India from a British colony to a sovereign, secular, and democratic nation was indeed historical. It was a long journey of around two decades that started with the conceptualization of the dream in 1930 to its actual realization in 1950. A look into the journey that led to the birth of Indian Republic will make our celebrations more meaningful.
Lahore Session of the Indian National Congress
The seeds of a republican nation were sowed at the Lahore session of the Indian National Congress at the midnight of 31st December 1929. The session was held under the presidency of Pt. Jawarhar Lal Nehru. Those present in the meeting took a pledge to mark January 26 as "Independence Day" in order to march towards realizing the dream of complete independence from the British. The Lahore Session paved way to the Civil Disobedience movement. It was decided that January 26, 1930 would be observed as the Purna Swaraj (complete Independence) Day. Many Indian political parties and Indian revolutionaries from all over the country united to observe the day with honour and pride.
Indian Constituent Assembly Meetings
The Indian Constituent Assembly, which was constituted as a result of the negotiations between the Indian leaders and members of the British Cabinet Mission, had its first meeting on December 9, 1946. The Objective of the Assembly was to give India a constitution, which would serve a lasting purpose and hence appointed a number of committees to thoroughly research the various aspects of the proposed constitution. The recommendations were discussed, debated and revised many times before the Indian Constitution was finalized and officially adopted three years later on November 26, 1949.
Constitution came into force
Though India became a free nation on August 15, 1947, it enjoyed the true spirit of Independence on January 26, 1950 when the Constitution of India finally came into force. The Constitution gave the citizens of India the power to govern themselves by choosing their own government. Dr. Rajendra Prasad, took oath as the first President of India at the Durbar Hall in the Government House and this was followed by the Presidential drive along a five-mile route to the Irwin Stadium, where he unfurled the National Flag.
Ever since the historic day, January 26 is celebrated with festivities and patriotic fervor all around the country. The day owes its importance to the constitution of India that was adopted on this day. On this Republic Day, read what the great Constitution of India, that propounds liberal democracy, has in its store. Let's also feel proud in pronouncing what the Preamble to our Constitution says.
Did you know?
With 395 Articles and eight Schedules, the Indian Constitution is the largest written constitution in the world.
Quotes
Dr. Rajendra Prasad, the first President of Independent India, in his special message to his countrymen, on the birth of the Indian Republic, said:
"We must re-dedicate ourselves on this day to the peaceful but sure realization of
the dream that had inspired the Father of our Nation and the other captains and
soldiers of our freedom struggle, the dream of establishing a classless,
co-operative, free and happy society in 'his country'. We must remember
that this is more a day of dedications than of rejoicing - dedication to t
he glorious task of making the peasants and workers the toilers and
the thinkers fully free, happy and cultured."
C. Rajagopalachari, His Excellency the Governor-General in a broadcast talk from the Delhi
Station of All-India Radio on Jan 26, 1950 said:
"On the eve of my laying down office, with the inauguration of the Republic, I
should like to tender my greetings and best wishes to the men and women of India
who will henceforth be a citizen of a republic. I feel deeply thankful for the affection
showered on me by all sections of the people, which alone enabled me to hear
the burden of an office to the duties and conventions of which I had been
an utter stranger."
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Friday, January 9, 2009
4-Are we friendly with our life?
How to make compost
Making and using compost is the cornerstone of organic gardening.
The finished product is rich, dark, crumbly and sweet-smelling. It is made of recycled garden and kitchen waste, and can also include paper products. It is used to feed and condition the soil and in making potting mixes. Around 40 per cent of the average dustbin contents are suitable for home-composting so it helps cut down on landfill too.
Making compost is often considered to be complex but all you need to do is provide the right ingredients and let nature do the rest – however, a little know-how will help you make better compost, more efficiently.
Where do I make my compost?
There are a variety of bins on the market but they are all just a container for the composting process. A bin is not strictly necessary – you can just build a heap and cover it over with some polythene or cardboard. However, bins do look neater and are easier to manage. You can build your own, buy one from any number of suppliers, including The Organic Gardening Catalogue, or get one cheaply from your local council – contact the Waste and Recycling Department at your local council for more information or visit the recycle now website: www.recyclenow.com
Garden Organic members can find out about making or buying a compost bin or box in our factsheets:
* Building a Compost Box
* Buying a Compost Box
Access to these factsheets requires members' password.
Find out more about Garden Organic membership here.
The ideal compost bin is:
* easily accessible
* has no gaps in the sides and may be insulated with cardboard or straw
* has a lid or cover
And is located:
* in a sunny or semi-shaded position
* directly on the soil or turf
* Anything that was once living will compost, but some items are best avoided. Meat, dairy and cooked food can attract vermin and should not be home-composted.
* For best results, use a mixture of types of ingredient. The right balance is something learnt by experience, but a rough guide is to use equal amounts by volume of greens and browns (see below).
* Some things, like grass mowings and soft young weeds, rot quickly. They work as 'activators', getting the composting started, but on their own will decay to a smelly mess.
* Older and tougher plant material is slower to rot but gives body to the finished compost - and usually makes up the bulk of a compost heap. Woody items decay very slowly; they are best chopped or shredded first, where appropriate.
Compost ingredients
'Greens' or nitrogen rich ingredients
Grass cuttings
* Urine (diluted with water 20:1)
* Comfrey leaves
* Nettles
Making and using compost is the cornerstone of organic gardening.
The finished product is rich, dark, crumbly and sweet-smelling. It is made of recycled garden and kitchen waste, and can also include paper products. It is used to feed and condition the soil and in making potting mixes. Around 40 per cent of the average dustbin contents are suitable for home-composting so it helps cut down on landfill too.
Making compost is often considered to be complex but all you need to do is provide the right ingredients and let nature do the rest – however, a little know-how will help you make better compost, more efficiently.
Where do I make my compost?
There are a variety of bins on the market but they are all just a container for the composting process. A bin is not strictly necessary – you can just build a heap and cover it over with some polythene or cardboard. However, bins do look neater and are easier to manage. You can build your own, buy one from any number of suppliers, including The Organic Gardening Catalogue, or get one cheaply from your local council – contact the Waste and Recycling Department at your local council for more information or visit the recycle now website: www.recyclenow.com
Garden Organic members can find out about making or buying a compost bin or box in our factsheets:
* Building a Compost Box
* Buying a Compost Box
Access to these factsheets requires members' password.
Find out more about Garden Organic membership here.
The ideal compost bin is:
* easily accessible
* has no gaps in the sides and may be insulated with cardboard or straw
* has a lid or cover
And is located:
* in a sunny or semi-shaded position
* directly on the soil or turf
* away from water-courses
* Anything that was once living will compost, but some items are best avoided. Meat, dairy and cooked food can attract vermin and should not be home-composted.
* For best results, use a mixture of types of ingredient. The right balance is something learnt by experience, but a rough guide is to use equal amounts by volume of greens and browns (see below).
* Some things, like grass mowings and soft young weeds, rot quickly. They work as 'activators', getting the composting started, but on their own will decay to a smelly mess.
* Older and tougher plant material is slower to rot but gives body to the finished compost - and usually makes up the bulk of a compost heap. Woody items decay very slowly; they are best chopped or shredded first, where appropriate.
Compost ingredients
'Greens' or nitrogen rich ingredients
Grass cuttings
* Urine (diluted with water 20:1)
* Comfrey leaves
* Nettles
* Grass cuttings
Wednesday, December 31, 2008
~*~Happy New year~*~
2008 is going to finish
Now, we need to face 2009
There may be risks involved
We may need to face roadblocks
So stay alert
Share time with friends
Jump over obstacles
With care
And caution
Face challenges
Remember to laugh
Cooperate
Discover
Make new friends
Above all…be ready for adventure
Stick together
And you will be able to go far
Very far…..
Well, not quite that far….
Always take time to smell the flowers
Don’t forget to relax and enjoy
And don’t forget those who likes you very much Happy new year-2009 wishes
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